Fashion Group International, ‘Clotheslines’, and the University of Fashion!

MaryLou Luther

MaryLou Luther, the famous fashion writer and the University of Fashion are friends, thanks to their longstanding membership to Fashion Group International.  Some of you may be asking yourselves , ‘Who is MaryLou Luther?’ or ‘What is Clothesline?’ We are here to inform you of MaryLou’s illustrious history within the fashion industry in addition to her latest projects and involvement with Fashion Group International and the University of Fashion.  Where to begin?  Let’s start with MaryLou.

Clotheslines by MaryLou Luther

Luther’s “Clotheslines” column has appeared in The Plain Dealer’s style section of the New York Times magazine since the 1980s, and is known by designers, fashion writers, and the fashion curious for her duration in the business, her extensive understanding of the industry, and notably, her kind disposition.

Luther first studied journalism at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, and then went on to work for the Lincoln Journal, then to the Des Moines Register.  It was in Des Moines, of all places, that she received her ‘big break’; she was assigned to the style beat.  By 1957, she was at the Chicago Tribune; an up-and-coming fashion reporter interviewing Christian Dior!  When Yves Saint Laurent debuted his first collection for Christian Dior in January 1958, Marylou Luther was there.  She met Coco Chanel.  Does fashion journalism get any better than that?!?  Well, in 1968, Luther was hired to be the Los Angeles Times’ fashion editor, so she and her husband moved to Beverly Hills and quickly befriended Edith Head, the legendary Hollywood costume designer.  I don’t think it gets better than that!

A sketch from Clotheslines

By 1985, Luther and her husband decided to return to Manhattan where she became a syndicated columnist and creative director for Fashion Group International, for which she covers the New York, Paris and Milan ready-to-wear shows and puts together bi-yearly narrated films and informative packages each year revolving around key runway trends.

Fashion Group International began in 1928 when 17 women, led by Edna Woolman Chase, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue, ‘met for lunch in a modest midtown New York restaurant…united in belief that fashion needed a forum, a stage, or a force to express and enhance a widening awareness of the American fashion business and of women’s roles in that business’.  Some of those Founding and Charter members were: Elizabeth Arden, Margaret Case, Eleanor Roosevelt, Helena Rubinstein, Julia Coburn, Lilly Dache, Jessica Daves, Nan Duskin, Edith Head, Eleanor LeMaire, Claire McCardell, Clare Potter, Virginia Pope, Dorothy Shaver, Adele Simpson, Carmel Snow, and Miss Tobé.

So, we’ve covered MaryLou’s fabulous career, and a bit about Fashion Group International, but did you know our own Francesca Sterlacci is also a member?

Well, Francesca has been a member of FGI since 1975, has utilized their extensive image library for all of the books that she has written: Leather Apparel Design, The Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry, The A-Z of the Fashion Industry and Leather Fashion Design.  To quoteFrancesca, “the FGI library is a fashion treasure trove and one of the best kept secrets

in the industry.  Make a date, sit in their library, and take a fashionable stroll down memory lane. Their collection of slides and prints, dating back to the the 1940s, will awe and inspire!  It is the perfect research tool for designers or anyone who is seriously interested in the fashion industry.”  In regards to her fellow FGI member MaryLou, Francesca for years, has attended her bi-annually collection presentations and now catches up on ‘Clotheslines’.  According to Francesca, “MaryLou’s wit, style, great eye for fashion, and spot-on trend analysis make her THE  person to go to for what is happening in fashion!”

Fashionably yours,

Liz

Social Media Director, University of Fashion

Bodymetrics in the Bay Area

The Bodymetrics Pod

As a student, designer, and overall fashion fiend, I often wrestle with issues of fit.  Whether designing for myself, a client, or buying something from a manufacturer, fit is proprietary.  Ill-fitting blouses, skirts that are too tight, finding the right fitting bathing suit, or dealing with the issues of a perfect fitting pair of denim plague women…like the plague.  No one wants the dreaded muffin-top, the wedgie-pant, ‘Mom Jeans’, or a serious “garment malfunction” when it comes to their clothes, yet we women (and men) have to deal with these and other fit issues every day.  Even those not ingrained in fashion culture know there is a major problem with fit in fashion.

Brad setting up the video equipment while Bodymetrics CEO Suran Goonatilake chats in the background

A couple of days ago, University of Fashion videographer Brad and I headed to Bloomingdale’s Stanford for the exclusive before-hours press event for Bodymetric’s fourth in-store scanner installation. Some of you may have heard about Bodymetrics body scanning device, as it has been in the news quite a bit, but here is the low-down.  Essentially, the Bodymetrics Pod scans and then carefully maps your body into hundreds of measurements and contours to determine your overall ‘body metrics’ and to find the best fitting garment for your size, shape, and style needs.  The main mission for the company was to help women to “find the perfect-fitting jean” from a variety of leading brands, but the use for the product extend far beyond this small realm.  Let me lead you through the process so you can see for yourself what the scanning experience and aftermath consists of!  As it is one thing to hear about burgeoning technology Pods and quite another to try one out for yourself!

After Brad and I shot the raw video and still footage respectively, it was my turn to try out the system.  Prior to the event, the Bodymetrics rep told me to wear my hair up -which I forgot to do- and to be dressed in tight fitting clothes, in this case, spandex leggings and a camisole; optimally the technology is best used wearing only ones underwear or completely nude.  I entered the scanner and closed the curtain. It had the feeling of a spray tan or standup tanning booth with plenty of room for a person of any size to move about comfortably, and hooks on the wall inside the Pod on which to hang your garments.  Footprints in the center of the Pod and a quick 30 second video prep you for the scan which in and of itself takes under five seconds…way faster than airport security, though you are still required to take off your shoes…oh well.

Myself stepping out of the pod after experiencing my first scan

Once the scan is finished, you are sent an e-mail containing a link with which to access your Bodymetrics account from your computer or mobile device, and upon exiting the Pod a rep is standing ready with your body scan and measurements in hand!  On the screen you see a miniature chrome version of yourself spinning around ominously or paused at any angle desired. Below the scan you also will see your key measurements i.e. bust, waist and hip, as well as multiple other commonly used body measurements. A full set of 200+ measurements is available if you simply e-mail a Bodymetrics Representative.  A third tab below reveals the names of many key brands and styles of denim which will flatter your shape and figure.

I was amazed at the way the salespeople were then able to get their customers in the right denim almost immediately, and let me tell you, the next day when I returned for the launch party, women were buying up denim like mad.  I myself tend to wear more skirts, but was able to find several pairs of denim that looked spot-on, and was thrilled to find the measurements produced by the Bodymetrics Pod, such as the hip to knee-length or waist circumference, could also be used for determining optimal skirt length, cuff width, etc.  For the designer, consumer, and fashion industry the information gathered by Bodymetrics will allow for an entirely new angle on their respective modes and goals.  Clearly, the technology allows the consumer to make better sartorial choices as far as pants go, but Bodymetrics also provides advice in regards to proportion and styling that can be applied to the waistline on a dress, or the hemline on a skirt.  If a customer desires a garment to be tailor-made, but cannot physically be at all or any of the fittings, one can simply send their measurements and avatar to the designer, and the fit will be near perfect.  This makes clear how Bodymetrics and designers will be able to work hand in hand.  Just thinking of the time saved taking the hundreds of measurements provided is something at which to marvel.  Additionally, if these measurements are collected by big clothing manufacturers and sizing Czars, the technology could guide the industry to a much better understanding of body-shapes, realistic sizing and a total revision of U.S. and worldwide standardized sizing.

Check out a short film from my test run at Bloomie’s…what a trip!

The Bodymetrics Pod will be installed for 3 months at Bloomingdale’s Stanford in Palo Alto.  If you are in the area, I strongly recommend exploring the Bodymetrics technology and free scanning service.  A true fash-o-phile couldn’t ask for a better fitting product.

Fashionably yours,

Liz

Social Media Director, University of Fashion

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Cullen Mo
Designer

Cullen’s Fashion Discovery

In our last post, we mentioned the many people and hands that went into creating the University of Fashion.  Among the contributors to the process were current and future students of fashion who felt the need for and had benefited from the University of Fashion’s online fashion video library.  One of those students was the young and promising Bay Area  high school student Cullen Mo.  As a young man with great aspirations at a young age, we felt he was a great representative of the fashion curious youth of America.  As one of the first students of the University of Fashion method, Cullen has been gracious enough to share his experience and advice regarding the program with us, and we would like to pass it on to you…

Cullen utilizing the Beginning Illustration Female Frontal Pose lesson

When I first entered high school, I was not sure exactly how I would choose amongst the many courses, clubs, and opportunities presented to me.  I have always been interested in the design arts, and was ecstatic to discover that there was an extracurricular club devoted to creating fashion. This club, which was run by none other than Francesca Sterlacci, facilitated the product ideals of the participating students from their sketches to final product.  I was thrilled to find out that as member of this club I would be able to showcase my designs.

It is worth noting that, before joining this club, I had taken several summer courses at Parsons and wondered just how much I could gain from Francesca’s professional knowledge of the fashion industry.  Throughout my three years learning and creating under Francesca’s instruction, I’ve learned many things from her instruction in person as well as from her gracious sharing of the University of Fashion’s video library. From the beginning, I learned how to translate my ideas into a clear and stylish illustration with Francesca’s lessons on drawing the fashion figure. I also learned how to manipulate the drape of different fabrics on the dress form, and how to properly ascertain a conceptual design onto a real human form.  I remember distinctly, and use often, the efficient shortcuts Francesca introduced me to when attempting to construct a particularly full garment.  I really appreciated being able to reduce a full week’s worth of work into a couple days. With her knowledge of crafting garments, and my yards of fabric, I was able to learn and understand how to construct my vision.

 Not only technically was Francesca an excellent instructor, but she was also instrumental in helping me articulate my design identity. I had a lot of disparate and idealistic ideas about my designs going into freshman year.  Learning from Francesca and the wide spectrum of University of Fashion films helped me to find a cohesiveness to my designs. She helped guide my vision in a realistic and executable manor, as well as suggesting design techniques which related to my aesthetic, to each other, and helped to tell a story, developing my collections by the year.  I was very pleased to see my own skills progress and to see each garment look more unified and strong than the one before.

In my Junior year I produced  a mini-collection that was the headliner at the school’s annual fundraising auction.  Not only was I proud of what I had accomplished from an artistic standpoint but knowing that I helped raise funds for my school was the icing on the cake!  Without Francesca, I would not have been as proficient in fashion design and would not have been able to go out on my own to create clothes. I thought that a few weeks of instruction each summer was enough for me to create my designs, but Francesca revealed to me an extensive personal study as well as years of practice and experience into the fashion industry is needed to make a collection work.  To have this opportunity at the high school level has given me a huge leg-up on my career goals and on the design school competition.  I am indebted to Francesca and the University of Fashion team, and am thrilled to be a part of bringing news of the great project and its creator to you!

Thanks Francesca

Respectfully,

Cullen Mo

Class of 2013

How We Do It!

How is the University of Fashion different from other fashion design programs?  Wondering how the project was conceived, constructed, and created?  With the Corporate launch just weeks away, we want to share with you a bit more about the project, the many hands, early mornings, and late nights which made our concept a reality.

At the University of Fashion, we have left nothing to chance. Before the first frame was shot, we conducted surveys and focus groups with high school and college students, instructors at fashion schools, and fashion industry members from around the country.   With their input, we prioritized which lessons to film and categorized each film into of the five fashion design disciplines: Draping, Pattern making, Sewing, Illustration, and Product Development. We tested the videos at schools to be sure that they were easy to follow and that they produced great results.

  Students in a high school classroom learning how to draw the female fashion figure:

Using industry connections, we reached out to current working fashion industry pros who were willing to share trade exclusives on camera.   The instructors were recruited based on their area of expertise and on their peer and student evaluations.  New York garment manufacturers are also polled regularly to keep up with current techniques and questioned as to which film lessons they would like to see produced.  We capture the needs of the home sewing market by interviewing hundreds of shop owners and customers at alterations, tailoring, and fabric stores to learn about their particular needs and interests.

The research done by the University of Fashion Team has resulted in a list of videos that will surely please everyone from the high school novice to the fashion industry pro.  If you are among the Fashion Curious, you will definitely want to tune in to our website’s Fashion Connection series where you will get to view lectures covering trend forecasting, how to pad a dress form, how to choose the right dress form, and other industry and marketing related topics.

Erin Algeo
Museum Manager/Curator
Lacis Museum

With our Fashion Location series we will take you on virtual tours of museums, showrooms, factories, designer ateliers, fashion schools. and behind the scenes at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week!

As for suppliers, we provided our instructors with the best equipment to work with, we reached out to the best in the business: Sew True, Brother, Baby Lock, Wolf and Fabulous Fit dress forms. They, and other industry resources like  B & J, M & J, Global Leathers, Mood and Libra Leathers are now official University of Fashion corporate colleagues.  We use their tools and equipment, exclusively and support their quality products. Thanks to our associations with these great companies, our subscribers are entitled to earn discounts on their purchases!

The Production Process

Brad at Fabulous Fit

Utilizing our studios in New York City and in Silicon Valley, and with state-of-the-art cameras, lighting, recording, and editing equipment’ we produce exemplary videos for our viewers.  Our executive videographer and his team carefully frame each shot, using multiple cameras, to make sure that the instructor’s every step is captured in a clear, concise, and visually pleasing way.

Instructor Barbara Arata-Gavere with Francesca

Once each lesson is filmed and the script finalized, we lay down a voice-over track before starting the final edit process. Each lesson is designed to use clear, concise language to provide the viewer with easy step-by step instructions.  To further reinforce the leaning experience, the University of Fashion offers a free transcript with every lesson. Students can also buy a pictorial, step-by-step lesson guide separately for a nominal fee.  In addition to our videos, we will offer a resource guide where viewers can find the best of everything in the business!  Schools, tools, books, trade magazines, machinery, dress forms, periodicals, and museums.

Once the University of Fashion officially launches you’ll be able to become a member for free and then sign up for a monthly or yearly subscription by visiting us at:  www.universityoffashion.com.  Get friendly with us and leave comments on our blog or on Twitter, You Tube and Facebook anytime.

You are only a click way!

Fashionably Yours,

The University of Fashion Team

The Metropolitan Museum of Art: New York, New York

The Costume Institute Gala, or Met Ball, is an annual event which celebrates the anniversary of the opening of the Costume Institute at Metropolitan Museum in 1948.  This red carpet event is known as the ‘Oscars of Fashion’ and rightfully so, as the looks seen at the Met are generally more avant-garde and daring than looks seen on most any red carpet, royal, or head of state affairs across the globe.  Celebrities, politicos, and fashion icons from around the world arrive dressed to impress, and at $25,000 a seat, one definitely wants to impress!  The event, hosted by Vogue, Conde Nast Publications, and Chanel is regarded as the top annual social event in New York City.

Current Jean Paul Gautier exhibit at the DeYoung: San Francisco

Each year the event has a theme, and the evening includes a cocktail hour and a formal dinner.  While the fashion parade and the discussions over sartorial choices extend for days after the event, the true focus is the fundraising and support of the efforts made to preserve the history and craft of fashion.  This thrills all of us here at University of Fashion as we seek in the desire to proliferate fashion knowledge and education across the globe.  With world renown museums such as the Kyoto Costume Institute, the DeYoung in San Francisco, and the Met in NYC choosing to feature fashion as a legitimate art form, we are all provided with a much better look at the actual world of fashion beyond reality TV, runway productions, and film premiers.

This is not meant to discredit other fashion fueled but not necessarily fashion-centric events. the Cannes Film Festival and the Oscars have major ‘star power’ and do draw a huge amount of attention to the fashion and design world by way of stars on parade in glorious couture, and in the awards given to the talented designers who dress these stars on set as well as for the red carpet…the costume designers.  Katniss would not have been half as believable without those killer Frye boots on.  Guaranteed.

Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology: New York New York

At the University of Fashion, providing the public with a behind-the-scenes look at the world of fashion production is one of our primary objectives.  We discussed in an earlier post the ‘Fashion Connections’ series which we have been producing for the U of Fashion library.  In this series we strive to bring different aspects of the working world of fashion into your home.  We have already filmed and produced segments on a lace-making company in the Bay Area, have interviewed several ‘influencers’ at Andrew Marc, have toured a leather artisans shop in NYC -he designs bespoke garments for Lenny Kravitz and Steve Tyler, just to drop a few names, and are working on a full video tour of the museum facilities at FIT.  Did you know their museum is free!  Get over there New Yorkers!

Here’s where we need your help.  In our search for facilities to tour and fashion leaders to interview, we have become overwhelmed.  So many fabulous locations and talented people from which to gather information!  So, who or what would you like a better look at from ‘behind the lines’?

Shoot us a comment or note on the blog, Facebook, or Twitter and let us know what we can film for you!

Yours in Fashion,

Liz

Social Media Director, University of Fashion

 Welcome to the University of Fashion Blog

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Please donate what you can.  Helping us will actually help you! We hope you will recognize the wonderful personal, national, and global benefits of the University of Fashion.

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Together we can craft and design America back into the the fashion industry!

Thank you for donating to the cause,

Francesca Sterlacci

President/Founder

University of Fashion